Day 47 August 9

I learned that heat is a relative term today.

After a much deserved oil change, bath and a fresh set of plugs, Magic was rarin' to go. We also were rejuvenated.

In Santa Fe, everyone you meet talks about how it's cooler here. It only went a little over 100 today... One can only imagine what the temperature was in the rest of New Mexico.

Acclimated to the heat, we still needed trees, which are hard to come by in these parts. In the city, only parks had grass. Water is so important that irrigation is controlled. The grass in the parks is a novelty and a luxury. We were thirsty for the mountains.

Heading out of Santa Fe, the Southwestern artwork along the highway was as spectacular as when we rode in. Birds eating rattlesnakes, turkeys and lizards adorn the overpasses and walls.

Heading toward Taos, we encountered some serious desert. The heat and the barren landscape tried to corral us, but the beauty of the mountains and the sage covered hills set us free, as we sped into the hot wind.

Mountains ... Trees... Clouds. We climbed out of Taos and into the purple plateaus, as spruce and pine started to appear. A sudden cloud cover added to the relief. Diving into the chill, we drank deeply of the change.

Route 64, another lonely road, took us onto the Enchanted Circle Highway. From Taos north, it loops around through mountains and desert. We whisked by Angel's Fire and then into Eagles Nest, population 306. We anchored here for the night. Everywhere we looked there was rain.

This town consists of a few motels, a restaurant and a gas station. I could take a nap on the main street now and probably not be disturbed until sunrise (unless a bear or coyote came by).

Dinner was at Calamity Jane's, an old saloon with friendly people. When we started this trip we knew we would be eating on the road for 60 days. So, we promised ourselves only one hamburger. We have been waiting for the perfect moment and it was tonight. Best meal ever. Enough said.

Still enchanted by New Mexico, we will finish the loop tomorrow. Sleeping at 8000 feet is a challenge for both of us, but tonight it will be 40 degrees and I think we will rest well. There is no air conditioning. The window is open to the song of the high desert.