Monday, August 13, 2012

Day 51 August 13

We peaked out today!

Cold but fueled by anticipation, we rode toward mighty Pikes Peak. At 14,114 feet, it is girdled by one of the highest climbing paved roads in America.

Our disappointment yesterday at not being able to climb the mountain, because of the annual hill climb, blossomed into awe as we witnessed the after effects of the race. Squeal marks at every turn painted us a picture of how fast the pace was and how close drivers came to flying off the road. There was enough rubber laid down to outfit a fleet of tractor trailers. On the way down, we noticed a wreck in the woods. Luckily, we learned, the driver has been released from the hospital.

Our ride may not have been a race, but it was a feat of excellent driving on Jules' part and fear, trembling and euphoria on mine. Moulding myself to Jules' back, we leaned together into never ending switchbacks. Jules called it the motorcycle road that keeps on giving, and that it did. Challenging Jules' driving skill and my psyche at every turn, I thought we would never reach the top. But when we dismounted at the summit, I couldn't tell if I was trembling from anxiety, elation or altitude. Jules maneuvered Magic right up to the summit sign and I posed shakily beside him as proof of our ascent was recorded.

A monument here states that Katherine Lee Bates was so moved by the view from the top of Pikes Peak, that she composed "America the Beautiful" when she returned to Colorado Springs. "Purple Mountain's Majesty" surrounded me and as the awe inspiring experiences we have had on this trip came flooding back, I too was overwhelmed with emotion and unexpected tears washed over the panorama.

Descending the mountain, I relaxed into the curves. Bike, driver and rider swung gracefully into the valley. What a sense of accomplishment we had.

Out of Woodland Park, our focus was directed toward the sky as threatening clouds closed in. At Wilkerson Pass we gave in to rain suits, a wise choice as heavy rain soon assaulted us. In the small town of Hartsel, we sought shelter in the Highline Cafe and Saloon, an entertaining local spot. We celebrated our morning's ride with a lunch of buffalo burger and mountain oysters (yes... they are) plus a Bloody Mary or two. Relatively light rain saw us off as we headed to Leadville, our final destination of the day. We checked in early and rejoiced at being warm and dry.

Leadville, at over 10,000 feet, is the highest incorporated city in the US. Tonight's stay will constitute the greatest altitude in which we have slept. Breathe!!!!!!!!

Tonight we began scheduling our return. I am excited at the prospect of home and family, but feel a sense of loss. I have grown used to the road and will miss it. The constant change of scenery and miracles happening every day have become a way of life. Also, the three of us, Jules, Magic and I, have bonded in ways that only wayfarers on lonely roads can. There are a few more paths to follow, and I will cherish them all.



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