Day 16 Monday, July 9

Fog on the Strait was eerily comforting this morning. We watched and drank our coffee from our room as the the haze slowly receded and the temperature rose above the 40's. We watched fishing boats on the choppy, cold water and praised the fortitude of these people.

Back on the road, we headed West for the last time on our trip (unless we zig-zag around at a later date, which is totally possible.) We had 18 miles to Neah Bay, and we arrived all too soon! The road skirted around the Strait and then the Bay, affording views of jutting rocks, pounding surf and towering cliffs.

The Makah Nation of Natives owns the land at the tip of the Bay. According to our waitress last night, who is a Tribal member, the Makah made a treaty with the U.S. that was the best of any. The Makah retained their ancestral land, their fishing and hunting rights and along with that, their persona. Compared to some of the other "relocations" we have encountered across the States, these people have fared well. Riding through the Reservation we saw a strong Tribal influence and a strong governing body.

The Cape Flattery Trail ended our riding West, but there was still some hiking to do. The Flattery Trail is a 450' drop to the cliffs above the Northwestern most tip of the continental U.S. Walking down through dense forests nourished by the rich soil and the moist climate where the Pacific Ocean meets the Neah Bay, one can feel the spiritual energy of ancient tribes that watched for whales from the cliffs and saw the first of us invade their peace.

Navigation on the path, through storm twisted trees, led us down, down, down until we ultimately stood facing into the wind of the Pacific Coast. Mysterious caves and sea worn rocks jutting out of the ocean loomed in the fog and mist. The feeling was primal and other worldly. The lighthouse on an island before us brought the present back into focus.

How long we stood with the wind in our faces, I can't say. Time flew on the wings of the seagulls and ducks soaring around us.

Finally we headed up the trail and thankfully we burned off the huge breakfast we ate! The truth that we all know, but don't admit, is that it's easy downhill, but the climb is always the challenge.

On the bike, we headed back on the road we entered and as usual, we felt like we were on a new route. Magic took each turn as if it were her first, and each sight was viewed from a fresh angle.

Headed South, because there was no more West to do, and ended the day in Forks, WA. Hopefully, we will wake up tomorrow not "undead" and it's not a full moon, so we don't have to worry about werewolves! Just in case, I have convinced Jules, the ultimate garliphobe (who I sometimes think might be from the Dark Side) to bring a few cloves to bed tonight.

Power of Indigenous People and power of Nature awarded us another day of infinite beauty and joy. The longer we travel the more my love grows for Magic, my husband and this vast expanse of freedom and wonderment I call my home.