Day 35 July 28

California served up a breakfast of granola and fresh fruit with a generous garnish of goosebumps today.

A very early morning out of Mariposa, as we were headed for the Sonora Pass, a ride we'd been assured was worth it. En route, we needed to take route 49 north ( back on the Golden Chain Highway again). We looked at this part as a means to an end, but it was apparent that we were wrong when we stopped at an overlook that proclaimed to be the site of Fort Fremont.

I stood on a rock, cautiously leaning over to see miles below .... And then I noticed the unraveled ball of yarn that was the road we were about to take. We could see it snake on and around curves, over bridges and then disappear until it ate up another mountain. Fear, anticipation and pure joy got me back on the bike and we began our descent.

As Jules challenged Magic at every turn, we traversed across the mountain again and again. The road sang under our wheels as we experienced a ride made for motorcycles. We met two other vehicles in 50 miles. There were also no guardrails.

Route 108 east from Sonora, the Sonora Pass, was our next test. An eighty mile ride from Sonora to the end holds it all. We started out in intense dry heat, then rose to pines that immediately cooled. Then huge boulders began sprouting from the earth. We stopped for lunch and ate in a rock garden overlooking a ravine that dropped for thousands of feet.

Carved and painted formations on this pass equal or surpass Yosemite. You are constantly bombarded by new views - jagged cliffs, thrusts of stone, sheer canyon walls. We swayed in unison with every curve and ultimately, we were at the end of the pass. But what? No more thrills? Turning around, we headed back up for another dose.

Eighty miles later we were back down to earth and headed west for tonight's bunk down in the "Cowboy Capital of the West", Oakdale, CA.

North, south, east and west were the directions we wandered today. Called by curves and new heights, we followed the Siren Song.

All bikers know that the road is not a route. The road is the reason.