Haystack Rock and Cape Kiwanda entertained us while we waited. First we went to Bob Straub State Park where we climbed up wild dunes that blocked the ocean - not an easy task in motorcycle boots. Once on top, the wind and the salt spray slammed us head on as did the view. The wild surf roiled and crashed against one huge rock that protruded proudly from the sea. There was no one on the beach here and we felt (as probably the first visitors to this place did) that we were alone at the end of the earth. Wild flowers and beautiful grasses landscaped the dunes and we wondered how anything could survive the elements.
What a difference a mile makes! Right down the road was Kiwanda Cove, a busy surfing beach and a landing famous for fishing boats known as Dories. It was complete with restaurants, pricey hotels and an espresso shop. Despite the nasty weather, the beach was crowded and the surfers dotted the waves.
Returned to our Monkey Puzzles. Jules has had an interest in these rare trees for years and would love to grow them, but this was not the place to do business - a bizarre mishmash of plant material stuck in small cleared areas contained hundreds of Monkey Puzzles that the owner refused to sell because she felt like they were her children! We learned much about the tree, so the visit had merit, but still, we were disappointed.
While there it started to rain, so we suited up and headed back down the Pacific Coast Highway. The damp coolness of the wind actually felt refreshing as we put on some mileage for the day.
Just north of Yachats, our riding day ended at the Terry-A-While Motel. What a find! Lonely on the road, the building is very unassuming, but the rooms are beautiful - detailed with care. Our sliding doors open to the Pacific and we watched the imagined sunset on the deserted beach. We will sleep tonight to the lullaby of the surf.
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