Tough as it was to leave Patrick Creek and the genuine friendliness of everyone there, we headed out in warm sun. Soon the road narrowed and the cooling darkness of the surrounding redwood forest ambushed us with its deep beauty. Redwoods, heavy with burled bark, overtook the more common spruce and pine.
A recommended hike, just off 199, lured us into heaven. Trees, ancient and massive, ferns lushly green and tall, awed silence and fog created an other worldly atmosphere. The air was so chilled and pure, every breath was a cool sip of life. Standing in a forest of trees 300 feet and more, we once again bowed to our mortality and let the redwoods whisper our prayer.
Continuing onto 101, we followed the coast, diving down into fog wrapped views of the Pacific and then again up into the woods, with sun streaking through the sequoias. We veered off the highway onto a bypass that took us even deeper into more giants.
A herd of Roosevelt Elk gave us a royal show on the next leg of our trip. Mostly bulls and a few calves grazed lazily, ignoring us as we stared in wonder at their ability to carry such huge antlers so proudly. Later we ate a silent lunch as the trees watched.
Headed past the Lady Bird Johnson Grove up Bald Hill Rd. that tricked us by turning to gravel. Magic doesn't like to ride on dirt, but the open views of wild field and mountain kept us continuing. Finally, a traveller in a car assured us that dirt was the deal. So, thirty miles into the loop, we reluctantly turned around. But then we had the joy of doing the road in reverse and seeing all from a new perspective.
Back on 101 we headed down the coast to Humboldt Bay. We are in Eureka tonight, a Victorian charmer, with mansions built from redwood wealth. The town prospered by lumbering thousands of ancient acres to build San Francisco. In areas that were clear cut in the late 1800's, pines and spruce have grown to surround decaying redwood stumps the size of small houses. One can only imagine what the forests of this area might be.
Lumber is life in the Northwest. I have been torn throughout our travels by the loss of trees vs. the livelihood of many of the people here. Reforestation is apparent and working, yet many of the original forests are gone as are jobs and lumber mills. Do we sacrifice man for nature or nature for man?
“Conservation means the wise use of the earth and its resources for the lasting good of men." Gifford Pinchot knew that man and nature had to create a symbiotic relationship in order for both to survive.
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